The Pyewipe Inn, Lincoln

There are plenty of ways to build up a healthy appetite before you pay a visit to The Pyewipe.
Many people visit when walking, cycling or cruising along the Fossedyke Navigation Trail or Canal. The Pyewipe is an oasis offering plenty of rewards for all that physical exertion, whether it is a refreshing drink or a leisurely meal which hits the spot. We visited on a winter evening and arrived by car so my justifcation is we were looking for comfort and sanctuary from the chilly winds and The Pyewipe certainly offers this.

The business is a pub, restaurant and lodge which has been owned by Bob and Sarah Pickles for many years. Their latest innovation has been the complete refurbishment of the kitchen, giving chef Peter Dodd his own personally designed workspace and considerable scope to expand the service.

Peter is a seasoned professional with a considerable career in fine dining and his menus, both in the bar and restaurant, give extensive choice of firm favourites mixed with seasonal variations. This is quite a feat when all the food is freshly prepared to order and I cannot imagine that even the fussiest diner would not be tempted by these choices.

The comfortable and traditional interior offers a warm welcome for the entire family and the dining room is expansive enough to cope easily with intimate dining (perfect for a Valentine’s celebration) or larger groups (Mothering Sunday is not too far away). On the evening we visited, numbers ranged from couples to tables of eight giving a buzz to an evening early in the week.

We decided to eat in the restaurant which in summer overlooks a patio and the riverbank. There was a choice of nine starters from which I chose deep fried Brie with an orange and cranberry chutney while my companion chose twice baked cheese soufflé with a mushroom and spinach sauce. Other tempting options were creamy mushrooms nestled on a bruschetta; rillettes of duck with sweet hoisin sauce; chicken liver pâté with onion marmalade and toast or duo of melon with pink grapefruit and orange drizzled with lemon and mint syrup.

We both thoroughly enjoyed the starters and had barely chance to catch a moment before our main courses arrived.

This choice had been even harder with thirteen options available but I went for duck breast on a bed of roasted root vegetables and plum sauce with roast potatoes while my fellow diner chose chicken, smoky bacon and leek pie with a light puff pastry and a choice of chips, dauphinoise, new potatoes and fresh vegetables or salad.

Other main courses included slow braised belly pork with sage, honey and cider sauce with creamed potatoes; salmon fillet with lemon butter sauce and new potatoes; rump or fillet steak, chicken breast with a bacon and chive mash served with Stilton sauce or three vegetarian options of Stilton and caramelised onion tart, leek, mushroom and spinach pie or mushroom and spinach stroganoff served with rice. My perfectly pink duck breast hit the exact chord for warming, winter comfort food, with a rich sauce and soft roast vegetables. The chicken pie was declared to be an equally tasty dish, full of flavour and the tang of leeks.

We did give ourselves a breather at this point and chatted to the staff who are friendly and very efficient. It is unusual to find everyone in this size of establishment so in tune with serving each customer so effortlessly but this is a well managed and motivated team.

Lastly we considered the twelve choices for dessert. My companion had the fresh fruit pavlova with a duo of fruit coulis while I had Black Forest roulade with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. What a delicious conclusion to our meal. We were equally tempted by glazed lemon tart with mulled fruits and vanilla ice cream or sticky toffee pudding and toffee sauce or baked white chocolate cheesecake with a dark chocolate sauce.

I have eaten at establishments run by Bob and Sarah many times over the years and have never been disappointed. I think the meal we enjoyed at The Pyewipe was the best so far and the great service was such a refreshing change from some of the distinctly indifferent attitudes which can be found in some venues.

I think my next visit will be during a spring walk. Park in town, enjoy the stroll and then a guilt-free indulgence in some great food. Look forward to seeing you there.

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